Prologue: May Day on the Yalu River -- On the move : to Harbin and Hulan -- Manchurian ghosts : Changchun and Shenyang -- Of sacred mountains : Liaoyang and the Thousand Peaks -- Borderlands : from Shenyang to Dandong -- Across the bridge : to Sinuiju and beyond -- Diversion : on time -- The new Jerusalem : Pyongyang -- Both sides now : Kaesong, Dorasan, and the line in between -- In the palace of the murdered queen : Seoul -- Islands in the bay : to Busan -- The road to the mountains : south from Wonsan -- Traveling hopefully.